A day in Theth Tour
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When I booked my day tour to the Albanian Alps, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect. Albania has been on my travel radar for years, but the country's mountainous north remained somewhat of a mystery. Home to what locals call the "Accursed Mountains," has been quietly gaining attention from travellers looking for authentic experiences away from the usual crowds – and after experiencing it myself, I can understand why.
Theth hadn’t actually been on my radar at all, but one of the more common things I like to ask people when I go places is where is their favourite location. So on the trip from the airport, my driver told me Theth was one of his. And honestly, words simply cannot capture the beauty of this landscape.
The Journey to the Albanian Alps
One of the things a lot of locals will tell you is that Albanian driving can be questionable, so I knew I wanted someone else to be behind the wheel during the day. Of course it’s possible to drive yourself if you have a car, but based on some of the gasps from the people in the van during the ride, there are sometimes journeys that are best left to the experts. I consider myself pretty desensitised to mountainous roads, which are not for the faint-hearted but just know that there are barriers in all the places they should be and the day and views are SO worth it.
The adventure began with an early morning pickup from my accommodation in Shkodër. The rest of the tour started in Tirana around 6:30am (and I believe there is also a collection point in Durrës). Starting from Shkodër saved considerable travel time and of course meant I got to wake up at a more reasonable hour.
After about an hour's drive, we reached the foothills of the Albanian Alps. We made a couple of photo stops along the way, including the mountain pass of Qafe Thore. Which is actually located on the highest road in Albania, with a lovely restaurant, perfect for a quick coffee stop and incredible views.
Then we began the descent into Theth Valley, which was nothing short of spectacular. As we wound down the serpentine road, the isolated village came into view and every turn I found myself wanting to take a photo.
The Blue Eye: Nature's Hidden Gem
The highlight of the tour was undoubtedly our hike to the Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kaltër). You can begin the hike in Theth, or continue on for ten more minutes in the car to a second car park, where there are a couple of restaurants. After stopping to take photos of the beautiful waterfall that essentially marks the beginning of the trail, we began our moderate one-hour trek.
While I’m not the strongest hiker, I genuinely had a big smile on my face for most of the hike itself was a joy. There is one section where you are literally clambering up and down rocks for about fifteen minutes, but other than that it is truly an incredible trail to walk. We stopped for a few minutes here and there along the way to catch our breath and take in the views, and when we finally reached the Blue Eye, I understood why it's considered one of Albania's natural wonders.
Though it was too cold on the day of my visit for swimming (something to consider if you're visiting outside summer months), a couple of members of the group did put their feet in for a bit. According to our guide, even in summer, the water rarely exceeds 8°C (46°F). There is a small restaurant/cafe a little bit further around the Eye, so it’s worth carrying some cash on the day. (Although this is just worth doing in Albania full stop).
Tip: one thing I noticed when I was doing my research - and funnily enough members of my group also assumed similar on the day - was that a lot of people get to the sign that says ‘Welcome to the Blue Eye’ and assume the river (in the photo below) is it. When actually you need to cross the river and walk literally about five minutes further for the Blue Eye itself. Don’t get all the way there and make the same mistake! It’s worth five more minutes!
Traditional Albanian Mountain Food
By this time, we were of course working up an appetite, and so after the pause at the Blue Eye, we made our way back to the start of the trail for lunch at a local guesthouse. Where we were treated to a buffet of Northern Albanian dishes, that included different cheeses, veggies and meats - and you could pay extra for drinks. At this point the sun had started setting behind the mountains and there was total silence for about ten minutes as we tucked in.
Theth Village: A Living Museum
After lunch, our first stop was the small stone church in Theth, dating back to 1892. Its simple yet powerful presence is particularly significant as one of the few religious buildings that survived Albania's communist period, when religion was officially banned.
Next, we visited took a little walk to the Kulla e Ngujimit (Tower of Seclusion). Also known as the Reconciliation Tower, had a unique purpose within the traditional Kanun code of honour. Our guide explained how, until the mid-20th century, families involved in blood feuds would send male members to seek refuge in these towers until conflicts could be mediated. The tower stands as a physical reminder of Albania's complex social history and the strict honour codes that once governed mountain life.
By the way, they might tell you about a couple of blood feuds that are still going on today, but it’s nothing for tourists to be worried about (as long as you don’t get caught up in it, of course).
Making our way back out, it was time to bundle back into the car and make the beautiful, but long drive back to our accommodations.
Practical Tips for Your Albanian Alps Adventure
Based on my experience, here are some recommendations for making the most of your Theth day tour:
Best time to visit: Tours may not run all year, so consider checking ahead of your trip. Of course it’s busier in the warmer seasons, but on my tour in March there were still enough of us to make up a car. Some tours won’t begin however until around April when the weather becomes consistently better.
What to wear: Proper footwear is important. My trainers were fine, but there is uneven terrain and sometimes muddy paths on the hike and there were times I wished I had hiking boots. And during colder seasons, I would consider wearing a mixture of layers. Having a tshirt as a base layer was helpful at certain points of the hike, but once the sun went in it got super cold and I was glad I had a thicker jacket too.
What to bring:
A small backpack with water and snacks
Camera (with extra batteries)
Swimwear in summer months
Light rain jacket (mountain weather is unpredictable)
Some cash for small purchases (there are no ATMs in Theth)
Connectivity: While I enjoyed the opportunity for a digital detox, the only time I found I didn’t have any signal at all was on the drive over the mountain peaks. Even on most of the hike, I somehow had better data coverage (from an esim) than I have done in central London!
Fitness level: The main hike to the Blue Eye is moderate – about 2km each way with some uneven terrain. Most reasonably fit people can manage it comfortably.
Book in advance: During peak season (June-September), tours often fill up quickly, so I’d recommend booking a few days ahead.
Final Thoughts on the Albanian Alps
Words and photos honestly don’t do justice to how beautiful this hike is. For those seeking alternatives to overcrowded European destinations, this hidden corner of the Balkans has everything you could want: majestic mountains, pristine nature, rich traditions, and warm hospitality.
The only thing I wish I had maybe thought of ahead of time was to rent a car and spend a couple of nights in Theth because the peace and quiet of this little village was absolutely incredible!
But if you’re short on time and simply looking for a way to disconnect for a day, then this hike will not disappoint! Are you thinking about visiting the Albanian Alps?
Han x
